Voyage – Le Monde Magazine, Australia

Story by Brenda Andre, VTO Senior Information Officer: My recent trip to Malekula was an enjoyable and interesting one. I accompanied a French journalist Marie Le Moel from Le Monde Magazine, based in Sydney Australia, from Saturday 10th April returning on Tuesday 13th April 2010. We were transferred to airport by Atmosphere Transfer to the Bauerfield domestic airport. Our flight time to Espiritu Santo was at 10.30am, arriving at 11.30am where we connected flight again to Norsup on Malekula arriving at 1.10pm We were met at the airport by Mrs Oreli, manageress for Nambelchel Bungalow who was guide and host. Nambelchel Bungalow is just five minutes drive from Norsup airport. There are 3 bungalows and one dormitory type. A common kitchen is available that is shared amongst guests. Oreli and her husband are both hard working couple who try their best to meet their guests’ requests and making sure their stay is always enjoyable and memorable. Accommodation is budget but clean and spacious. Oreli is very informative and would always give a readiness hand to assist guest. Rooms are serviced daily. Saturday afternoon was our first visit to the Mahe Village a tribe that represents Big Nambas. The drive to the village was 25 minutes from our accommodation. We were welcomed by a custom dancing group that led us to their nasara. The last Namangi (pig killing ceremony) that took place here was 30 years ago. The old tam-tam which was used during the ceremony could still be seen at the nasara and the chief informed us that should a new Namangi  ceremony was to be performed by another chief in the future a new tam-tam has to be carved to be utilized during the ceremony.

Here we were entertained by various custom dances. Dances performed were the Circumcision Dance, Nasara Dance, Yam Harvesting Dance, Counting of Pig’s teeth ,  Ladies Dancing which is normally held during the ceremony where  the front teeth  is knocked off a common  practise  by this tribe long ago identifying a married woman . Days leading to a real Namangi ceremony there is always a public dance after all the various dances performed mentioned above and at the end of the day the Namangi Dance which waves a preparation path for the Pig Killing Ceremony the next day. This dance normally takes place from 6pm till 6am.

The Mahe tribe was originated from the Big Nambas settlement at Amok Village middle bush Malekula but when the Missionaries arrived on the island a small group of them moved away from the main Nasara and formed the Mahe Village now today. Mahe Village is a Catholic Mission where there is also a Catholic School for kids to attend school. Sunday afternoon we set off for Walarano Village a small Nambas which was about 16km from Norsup. The drive from Norsup was 35 -40 minutes.

The community we visited had a small entertainment area by the seaside at Rano main land. Activities displayed by the small Nambas involved women weaving, custom dancing, starting fire by wood,   traditional food demonstration, sand drawing. Interestingly one of the designs drawn by a young artist symbolised a fish. Explanation that came later was  that sand drawing was also used to passed on messages as well as tell a story for example :  If a fish was drawn by a house holder in front of their doorstep this indicates that the householder have gone fishing in case a visitor comes to the house.

To name a few custom dances performed, Wind Dance where the local men would sing and dance before they sail their canoes and the main concept of the song is to ask the wind to help them sail their canoes to their destination. Then there was also the Cannibalism Dance.  To conclude, Malekula is an interesting place for tourists. The island is blessed with a lot of traditions and authentic sites. As mentioned in the past meetings with promoting tourism in the outer islands, I believe there is big potential that a good number of tourists will visit our outer islands.